Saturday, December 29, 2012

Dear Coffee,

Cappuccino at Stranger's Reunion, Singapore

Dear Coffee,


I never really liked you when we first met. I thought you were bitter compared with my dear friends Apple juice and Coke. I didn't understand you at all. But then I entered University and we were introduced yet again. And now, I need you like a car needs petrol.

We've gone through so much together - sleepless nights and pre-exam panic. Sometimes I wonder where I'd be without you. You drag me out of exhaustion, you inject my day with purpose like a shot of adrenaline and you smother any impulse to procrastinate. Even the smell of you makes me swoon. You smell like a perfect concoction of sunshine, warmth and deep, unwavering happiness. Sometimes I think your aroma alone is enough to get me through the day.

Our time together is a fleeting one, however. And any commitment in this relationship would turn into a deep dependency that there is no turning back from. Every craving you satisfy is temporary and keeps me coming back for more. I can convince myself you're good for me, or that my future career needs you, but in the end, indulging in you is stepping over the line into an unhealthy addiction. 

If I want to maintain any sort of control in this relationship, we must part for the holidays. But don't despair; come April when my examinations draw near, we will be reunited once more. 

Your schooltime fling,

Mary 

Friday, December 21, 2012

LONDON: Billingsgate Market and Lemon Sole

The freshest, and most affordable, fish is the kind that takes waking up at 5am for. In Michel Roux: A Life in the Kitchen, Michel describes how his father used to drag him out of bed in the wee hours of the morning to buy produce from Billingsgate Market for their family restaurant. My housemate Michael had been trying to convince me for awhile that the visit was worth sacrificing sleep for and I finally relented after reading Michel Roux's cookbook. 

Billingsgate market at Canary Wharf is an experience. Fishmongers are brusque, curt people, probably weathered by a life of fishing in harsh conditions. Even so, Michael and I came home from Billingsgate with a hefty bounty of healthy pink salmon, fresh cod and two perfect dover soles. 
Billingsgate Market




I have an unexplainable penchant for Jamie Oliver's recipes and this time I tried his tray- baked lemon dover sole. Despite it's boney texture, the sole came out juicy, lightly flavoured and perfectly cooked through. I can see why Jamie chose to add olives to his recipe - something I chose to forgo because the only time I can eat them is when they're blended and mixed into my thai rice - as the sole came out slightly under salted.

I wouldn't visit Billingsgate market again (I need my sleep) but I now know what a good restauranteur has to go through. After all, a truly great dish would be nothing without the freshest ingredients. 




Baked and ready to eat! 

Tray-Baked Lemon Sole 

Jamie Oliver's recipe 

Ingredients 

  • 4 whole lemon soles, from sustainable sources, ask your fishmonger
  • 2 handfuls red and yellow cherry tomatoes, halved
  • 4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely sliced
  • 1 handful fresh oregano or basil, leaves picked
  • 1 bunch spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
  • 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
  • sea salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • zest of halved lemons
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 handful black olives, destoned and chopped
  • 1 handful fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Method 

This is really simple. First of all give your fish a wash, then with a sharp knife score across each fish down to the bone at 2.5cm/1 inch intervals on both sides. This allows flavour to penetrate the fish and lets the fish's juices come out. 

Preheat the oven to 200ºC/400ºF/gas 6. Get yourself a bowl and add the tomatoes, garlic, oregano or basil, spring onions, balsamic vinegar, a pinch of salt and pepper and the zest and juice of 1 lemon to it. Loosen with a couple of good tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil and mix well, then spread over the bottom of a large roasting tray. Use one that will fit all 4 fish quite snugly (or you can use two smaller trays). Place the fish on top – top to tail.Now add the olives, parsley, juice and zest of the second lemon to the bowl that the tomatoes were in. Loosen with a little olive oil and then divide this mixture between the fish, placing an equal amount on the centre of each. Cook in the preheated oven for 12 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the fish. To check whether they're done, take the tip of a knife and push it into the thickest part of the fish. When done, the flesh will easily pull away from the bone.

Once cooked, remove the fish from the oven and allow them to rest for 3 or 4 minutes while you get your guests round the table, serve them some wine and dress your salad. Then you can come back to the fish. Divide them up at the table on to 4 plates, making sure that everyone gets some tomatoes and juice spooned over the top of the fish. Lovely!

Monday, December 17, 2012

LONDON: Maze by Gordon Ramsay

Pressed duck and foie gras,
Black pepper poached pear, sauternes gel 

From Heston Blumenthal to Nigella Lawson, Britain's food scene has erupted with michelin starred chefs and celebrity home cooks. Gordon Ramsay resides amongst the best of these and with this in mind, expectations were reasonably high when I visited Maze.

Unfortunately, the service was so drastically mediocre that it eclipsed the entire experience. The maitre'd was too distracted to bring us to our table; the waiters and waitresses had to be called at least twice before we got any attention for order taking or menus and our waitress shot us dirty looks when we mentioned this. Our only reprieve was the apologetic words of the hostess at the end of our meal.

Objectively speaking, service aside, the chefs at least seemed unfazed by the Saturday crowds and the savoury food was a pleasure to eat after weaving through the Bond Street Christmas crowd. The braised beef feather blade was the highlight of the menu - drizzled over with a sweet pomme puree, the soft, flaky meat gave way easily under my fork and melted into a blissful beefiness on my tongue.

On the other hand, the desserts belied the astute sense of taste - emphasized by his draconian demeanour -  that Gordon portrays in his television shows. The yuzu tea cake lacked an intensity of flavor and had a frosty texture that didn't slide easily onto my fork. All in all, Maze puts Gordon Ramsay's name to shame. Is there too much hype built up over Gordon Ramsay? With high celebrity status comes great expectation. When it comes to Maze, Gordon's myriad of television shows and michelin stars may well be his downfall.

Quail, confit leg, girolles, smoked sweet corn veloute    

Pork belly, clams, wasabi, lobster and sake dressing    
Braised beef feather blade, pomme purée, shimeji mushroom, togarashi spice 

Yuzu ‘tea cake’, mango & lime jam, lemongrass ice cream    


Clementine parfait, orange polenta cake, cointreau gel, clove ice cream 

Maze 
10-13 Grosvenor Square 
Mayfair
London W1K 6JP
United Kingdom

Reservations
+44 20 7107 0000