Friday, August 31, 2012

How To Make Lemon Meringue Pie



Lemon meringue pie is a delicate infusion of sweet and citrus; an ingenious manifestation of the ever so popular combination of lemon and sugar. A more intense version of Pierre Herme's Ligurian Lemon Cake, lemon meringue pie strikes a balance between the sweet sharpness that comes the lemon curd and the fluffy airiness that comes from the velvety meringue that is slathered on top.

Most of the baking I do involves only a few major steps - blend, soak, chop or sift the individual ingredients then dump them all into the mixer and pop it into the oven. A lemon meringue pie on the other hand, is a three part process - crust, curd and meringue. Nonetheless, when you have a friend's birthday coming up and diner en blanc to prepare for, coupled with the fact that it's one of your dad's favourite desserts, it's about time to make the pie. 

After sieving the lemon curd hot off the stove, pour it onto the freshly baked tart base

After getting my friends to separate the egg yolks from the whites (my least favourite bit), all it took was a pinch of salt and sugar to whip the pale yellow goo into a temptingly silky, cottony soft cloud of white. 

Unfortunately, the texture only lasted long enough to perfect the first meringue pie before I used a blow torch to caramelize the top the next morning in time for the birthday surprise. Having left the rest of the fluffy meringue overnight in the fridge, it was too flimsy to hold much of a pattern by the time I slathered it onto the second pie the next evening. 

Tips for bakers
For internet recipes, I usually go to Joy of Baking - they're reliably simple, don't call for exotic ingredients (like fleur de sel and orange flower water) and almost always turn out well. If I were to make this again, I'd probably use about a quarter or even half less sugar than this recipe calls for.

Tips for eaters:
Too lazy to bake? I suggest you visit Prive Bakery Cafe at Keppel Bay to satiate any lemon meringue pie cravings. 

First pie: pre-torched/caramelized. 
Second pie: post-torched/caramelized

LEMON MERINGUE PIE
Adapted from Joy of Baking

Sweet Pastry Crust:
1 1/2 cups (210 grams) all purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/4 cup (50 grams) granulated white sugar
1 large egg, lightly beaten

Lemon Curd:
3 large eggs
1/3 cup (80 ml) fresh lemon juice(2-3 lemons) 
3/4 cup (150 grams) granulated white sugar (you might want to halve this) 
4 tablespoons (56 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature and cut into small pieces
1 tablespoon (4 grams) lemon zest

Meringue:
4 large egg whites
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (130 grams) white granulated sugar
1/2 tsp salt 

Sweet Pastry Crust
1. Sift together flour and salt. Place butter in mixer and beat until softened. Add sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Gradually add the beaten egg, beating until just incorporated. Don't over mix or the butter will separate and lighten in color.  Add flour mixture all at once and mix just until it forms a ball.  Don't overwork or pastry will be hard when baked.  
2. Flatten dough into disk, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for about 30 minutes or until firm.
Have ready an 8 - 9 inch (20 - 23 cm) tart pan with removable bottom.  On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry into an 11 - 12 inch (28 - 30 cm) circle that is about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick.  To prevent the pastry from sticking to the counter and to ensure uniform thickness, keep lifting up and turning the pastry a quarter turn as you roll (always roll from the center of the pastry outwards to get uniform thickness). To make sure it is the right size, take your tart pan, flip it over, and place it on the rolled out pastry.  The pastry should be about an inch larger than pan.
3. When the pastry is rolled to the desired size, lightly roll pastry around your rolling pin, dusting off any excess flour as you roll.  Unroll onto top of tart pan.  Never pull pastry or you will get shrinkage (shrinkage is caused by too much pulling of the pastry when placing it in the pan).  Gently lay in pan and with a small floured piece of pastry, lightly press pastry into bottom and up sides of pan.  Prick bottom of dough (this will prevent the dough from puffing up as it bakes).  Freeze for about 20 minutes to chill the butter and to rest the gluten in the flour.
4. Preheat oven to 205 degrees C and place rack in center of oven. Bake the crust for 20 to 25 minutes or until the crust is dry and lightly golden brown.  


Lemon Curd 
1. While the crust is baking make the Lemon Curd. In a stainless steel bowl placed over a saucepan of simmering water, whisk together the eggs, sugar, and lemon juice until blended.  Cook, whisking constantly (to prevent it from curdling), until the mixture becomes pale in color and quite thick (like a hollandaise sauce or sour cream) (160 degrees F or 71 degrees C on a thermometer).  This will take about 10 minutes.  
2. Remove from heat and immediately pour through a fine strainer to remove any lumps.  
3. Cut the butter into small pieces and whisk into the mixture until the butter has melted.  
4. Add the lemon zest.  Immediately pour the lemon curd into the baked crust and smooth the top.
5. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees F (177 degrees C).  Bake the tart for about 10 minutes or until the lemon curd is firm but still a little wobbly in the center.  Do not let it brown or burn. 


Meringue
1. In a clean bowl of your electric mixer, with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites until foamy.  Add the salt and continue beating until soft peaks form.  Gradually add the sugar and continue to whip until stiff peaks form.
2. Using a spoon, place dollops of the meringue over the entire surface of the hot lemon curd, starting at the outside edge of the tart.  (Make sure the meringue comes right up to the crust and there are no gaps between the crust and the lemon curd.) Then, with the back of your spoon, gently press down on the meringue to get rid of any air pockets and to make sure all the lemon curd is covered with the meringue.  If desired, swirl the meringue making a few decorative peaks.  Return the tart to the oven and bake for about 10 to 15 minutes or until the meringue has nicely browned.
3. Remove from oven and place on a wire rack to cool, away from any drafts.  When cool, serve or else cover and refrigerate.
Serves 6 - 8

Saturday, August 11, 2012

SINGAPORE: DB Bistro Moderne

The Yankee Burger Beef Patty, Iceberg Lettuce, Tomato, Onion Served on a Sesame Bun
For all the hype that DB conjures up with its empire reaching as far as New York and London, it was slightly underwhelming. Where it soared for simpler dishes like pasta and the wonderfully light salad dressing, it was disappointingly flat when it came to its burgers. Maybe I'm used to fattier patties that ooze lovely meaty goodness, but the Yankee burger on DB's menu lacked that extra pinch of salt and, as hard as it is for me to say it, that extra bit of fat. 

Thankfully, the unsatisfactory burger was off set by a well executed mushroom pasta. Pasta is deceptively easy to do. There is a complex interplay of factors that make up the perfect pasta. The pasta must first be al dente, the sauce it's then tossed in must be subtle enough not to overpower the other ingredients yet not bland, and every garnish - be it spinach or deep fried onions - has to complement all the other garnishes and melt together in perfect unison on your tongue. DB managed to accomplish all this exceedingly well with its orecchiette (ear-shaped) mushroom pasta. 

As important as food is to a restaurant, so is its service; and the best service is in the details. One thing I remember and appreciated was that every plate, whether a serving dish or the one in front of you, was warm. This kept the food satisfyingly warm throughout the entire meal. 



Tarte: Provençale Tomato, Eggplant Smoked Mozzarella, Arugula Sauce Vierge


B1-48, Galleria Level
The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands
(Across from the Theater)

Friday, August 3, 2012

BATH, UK: Places we ate, and ate, and ate

 
Despite the tireless exploitation of the word "Bath" every time I mentioned I'd be "going to Bath with 3 friends", Bath really did feel like one long bath. When it rains in Singapore, it pours seriously for about half an hour before stopping completely. In Europe however, it trickles down endlessly like water dripping from a broken tap. 

In a way, the weather just made the promise of a warm and hearty meal with three of your equally rain-soaked friends all the more welcome. Surprisingly, it was one of the best trips I'd made while in University - not because there was a lot to see or do, but because of the company. I honestly don't think it matters where you are in the world, as long as you're with the right people. 


Lobster Ravioli
The food in Bath wasn't particularly exceptional, but it wasn't completely lackluster either. 
I didn't like how the lobster ravioli at Aqua Italia was presented, like bits of your intestine loped onto a lazy susan. The filling lacked any flavour and was decidedly bland. Either way, I was grateful for a hot meal after the the rowing in the rain all afternoon. 


Panasia Oriental Restaurant






Panasia came recommended by a few websites and we stopped here after cycling around Bath. I ordered my favourite thai dish, green curry chicken, but the curry was disappointingly un-spicy having been tailored to western tastebuds. The pad thai and grilled fish however, redeemed the restaurant a little. Apparently Panasia is award-winning, but then again there aren't many Thai restaurants in Bath to compete with it. 


OPA: Meze Restaurant & Bar 





OPA was a rose among the thorns. The portions were relatively substantial and my grilled sea bream had been cooked to just the right point - tender but not undercooked. The flavour of the herbs had permeated the meat, and with a drizzle of olive oil and squeeze of lemon, it made for a refreshingly satisfying meal. 

Some cafe in Bath Abbey near the Roman Baths



Unfortunately I no longer remember the name of this cafe, but it was around the Roman Baths Museum. For cakes that were sitting out in the open without a cover, these remained heart-stoppingly, wonderfully moist, with the citrus and nutty flavours melting on the tongue like ice cream on a hot day. Combine the cakes with teapig tea and the kind of conversation you have while it drizzles outside, and you have the perfect way to spend a late afternoon. 


Bath is one of those trips you can do in 2 days and appreciate for its Roman-esque buildings and cobblestoned pavements reminiscent of the scenes in a Jane Austen novel. London pulses with frustrated traffic and a stream of all kinds of people. Bath, on the other hand, is a step into a world where a horse-drawn carriage wouldn't look out of place. 



Saturday, July 28, 2012

PARIS: Telescope cafe


Call them what you like - patisseries, boulangeries, cafes - they are so common in Paris that visiting one would be as cliche as visiting the Eiffel Tower. The Parisians seem to know this all too well and an unsuspecting tourist may end up paying an exorbitant amount for tasteless coffee or a skimpy crepe. Telescope cafe seems to defy all norms when it comes to the cafes that populate central Paris. 

After a morning of cycling around Paris with a tour guide who was amusingly enthusiastic about her food, we were bestowed with a sacred list of restaurants, cafes and streets compiled every year by the tour guides. These were their favourite haunts and completely unsponsored so we knew we'd struck gold when we sat down at the top cafe on the list - complete with the sub-header "best coffee in Paris'. 

We were too full to eat, but the cappuccino I ordered was indeed the best I'd had so far in Paris. (Though admittedly I still prefer and remain loyal to Monmouth coffee in London.) Telescope cafe is nestled along such an odd little street in the middle of nowhere that I marveled at how anybody had discovered it at all. 



I wasn't the only food reviewer there that day - a food photographer and a journalist, both japanese, were busy at work while we sipped our coffee. 


Telescope Cafe
5 rue Villedo 
75001 Paris

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

SINGAPORE: Carpenter & Cook


The cafe culture that once seemed natural only in Europe has slowly but surely pervaded Singapore's thriving food scene. Maybe its psychological or maybe caffeine releases endorphins, but I genuinely feel like a brighter and more motivated person after a good cup of rich and flavourful coffee. 

The concept of a cafe with a vintage themed interior has been done all too often - but with good reason. There's something pleasantly surreal about unique cafe interiors. The ones I visit most (i.e. Fork in London, K.ki and Forty Hands) are neither modern nor posh, aren't trying too hard to impress, but are just tastefully comfortable. 






People don't visit cafes solely for the food. They visit for one of two things: the coffee or the atmosphere. Carpenter & Cook has done a fantastic job with its interior and it's no wonder that it's crowded all the way until evening. Nonetheless, their cappuccino was much too strong for me. It's the kind that leaves me so hyped up on caffeine that I end up feeling jumpy for the next 5 hours. I'd recommend going for the pastries (all handmade) and for the pleasure of indulging yourself in an English-themed vintage atmosphere. 


Carpenter & Cook
Chun Tin Road/Beauty World area at
19 Lorong Kilat, #01-06, Singapore 598120
Operating hours are:
Tuesdays - Fridays: 12pm - 10pm
Saturdays: 10am - 10pm
Sundays: 10am - 7pm
Closed on Mondays

Friday, July 13, 2012

LONDON: Nobu

My European summer was a riot of colour - from glaringly beautiful blue skies to the sudden proliferation of baby blue chinos; the soft pastels of macaroons to the sandy peach tinge that the streets of both Bath and Paris are doused in. I'd have expected the thrill of living in London to have expired by now but all this time overseas seems to have had the opposite effect. With my second year of university drawing to a premature close, I have only so much time left to immerse myself in all this Londoness as an (almost) completely burdenless human being. While some may experience a new city by soaking up the sights and sounds along the streets, I believe the best way to truly appreciate a city is through the taste buds. 


If I had to describe Nobu's food in a line, it'd probably be: "you get what you pay for". I've probably had one of the best few meals of my life at Nobu. With that thought in mind, the prices don't seem all that exorbitant. We each had £80 meal that gets you 7 courses picked by the chef, one of which was -and I made absolutely sure of this - the black miso cod. Despite the first two courses being slightly over-salted, the salt content was reduced substantially after we spoke to our waitress. I've probably mentioned this before, but when you get food quality this good, quantity is negligible when it comes to satisfaction. (Not that this stopped us from ordering an extra dessert each after our 7 courses.) 











Nobu
19 Old Park Lane
+44 2074474747

Thursday, June 28, 2012

LONDON: Pollen Street Social ROUND 2


Chocolate “Black Forest” fondant, praline, liqueur sponge, cherry sorbet
As one of my favourite places to eat in London and one with an ever changing menu, Pollen Street Social deserves a second post. With a friend visiting London for the first time, I was searching for the perfect introduction to London's thriving food scene and I knew Pollen Street Social wouldn't fail me. 

It's rare to find a place with a laid-back, unpretentious interior, friendly service and quality food without the exorbitant prices. I shy away from fine dining places with hard, cold marble floors and ostentatious glass chandeliers that scream pretense and border on tastelessness. Pollen Street Social manages to serve gourmet food without that overt flamboyance and an air of class that does not stifle conversation but is subtle enough to be appreciated.  


Slow cooked egg, home smoked Scottish haddock, curry puffed rice, parsley veloute
Cornish red mullet “aioli”, vegetable salad, Jersey Royals


Roasted cod, cockle vinaigrette, young leeks cooked & raw
 
Lemon & lime flavours, crispy meringue, lime yoghurt sorbet
The meringue was incredibly refreshing, especially with London's eccentric weather on the extreme end of hot. Although the chocolate desserts at Pollen St. have always been slightly too sweet and decadent for my taste, it might appeal to others. 



Much to my delight, I've discovered that Jason Atherton, the chef at Pollen Street Social, is opening a restaurant in Singapore. I can only hope the standards will be on par with the London branch.


Pollen Street Social 
10 Pollen Street
City of London,
Greater London W1S 1NQ


Reservations


Friday, June 22, 2012

Taste of London Festival


If there existed a checklist for a successful food fest, Taste of London Festival would tick every single box. Food quality, service, variety and organization-wise, it was incredibly enjoyable despite the rain and occasional mud-dipped boot.

It cost me £20 for the ticket in and another £20 for food vouchers or "crowns”, but it was entirely worth it. Pollen Street Social, Jamie Oliver's Barbecoa and Bar Boulud are just a few of London’s iconic restaurants that set up a pop up booth today. Like treasured excerpts from my favourite books, each food stall was a miniature version of the restaurant - complete with a miniature kitchen, a few waiters and the chefs behind the scenes. What amazed me was the sheer scale of it all. From the simple things like cheese to the more sophisticated like ox cheek and black truffle risotto, it felt like a metropolitan-ized borough market (i.e. London’s local farmers market). 







Pollen Street Social: Slow-cooked ox cheek with apple pomme purée and braised turnip
10 Crowns
Gauthier Soho: Black truffle risotto- Parmigiano Reggiano and light chicken jus 12 Crowns
Michel Roux Jr's starter for La Gavroche: Roulade de saumon fumé fromage frais à la ciboulette, vinaigrette de truffes: smoked var salmon with cream cheese and chives and truffle dressing 8 Crowns

Michel Roux Jr 



Petrus: Suckling pig belly with apple and prune compote and sage jus 
12 Crowns

Bar Boulud: Tunisienne 'Hot Dog'
Lamb Merguez with Harissa, Roasted Peppers, Brioche Bun and Mint Yoghurt 

12 Crowns


Bacardi 



Gaucho: Sea bass ceviche with mango and passion fruit sauce
10 Crowns 



The festival is on for the next two days until the 24th this month. If you haven’t bought your tickets yet, and you're a foodie looking for something to epitomize your summer experience, I highly recommend you do.